A new 16th century smocked shift

For my 1520s court gown I want to have a really luxurious shift with goldwork, but before I want to do that I need to test out methods and smocking patterns. I decided to make a shift that would be more likely for the lower classes. Since I'm using an upper class pattern, that takes up a lot of fabric and the smocking will take a really long time I doubt that a shift like this would actually have existed. If you were rich enough to use up so much fabric, then you would have had your shift in bleached linen. It's an example of how using the right materials and techniques still can end up being inaccurate. I see this as a learning shift, and I'm still going to use it for a lower class impersonation when it's done, but I am aware that it's probably too fancy.

Anyway...for the pattern of the shift I'm using this pattern from Germanrenaissance.net. The front and back are basically a full width of fabric, and the sleeves are half a length each. For the pattern I'm using a linen from Handelsgillet. For my fancy shift I will probably use thinner linen, this one will end up quite bulky to wear under a kirtle.

I sewed the pieces together, but only around 15 cm at the top. I want to see how the smocking changes the shape before I decide on where the sleeve gusset will go in and how wide the sleeves will be. I also did a rolled hem all around the neck opening.

It's a lot of fabric for one shift

the top of the shift

 Then it was time to mark out where the gathering threads will go. I'm using a sewing ruler and a frixion pen, where the ink dissappears by ironing the fabric.

I don't mark out every single stitch, the important thing is that I get regular markings so that the gathering stitches will be straight on the horizontal, I will also use the gathering thread as markings for the pattern darning.

Then after almost a week of prepwork, it has taken me 4 days just to do all the gathering, then it's finally time to pleat it all togeher and finally start with the smocking.