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Saturday, 13 July 2024

The landknecht wams/doublet part 1 - slashes

 In the last post I had started with deciding the style, and gotten a basic pattern done. Then my computer totally died, and that is why I haven't updated more until now.

Once I had the main pattern done I did some tweaks on the pattern, but now I twas time to start on the slashing on the main body of the doublet. As a note in Swedish I prefer to use the word "tröja" for this, if I wrote in German I would say "wams", but since this is a blog in English I will use doublet. I have a petpeeve of reenactors mixing languages, when there are adequate words in each language. I am not innocent of doing this myself, but I try to stick to one language at a time. 

Anyway I wanted to make a lot of slashed, but how should I make them.

There are basically three ways to make the slashes. To simply cut them into the fabric, cut them in a specific shape, and to and hem them. All three exists and it depends on fabric and how you want the final look to be.  To just make a slit didn't give me the huge almond-shaped slash that I wanted. To try and cut it into shape was hard with a pair of scirros, I didn't get the hole totally even. If I had had a pinking tool this would have been a lot easier. To just cut a slit and then hem the edges did give me that open, almond shape that I wanted though. So I groaned a little over the thought of having to hem all the slashes but decided that I would have to do it to get the look I wanted.

To makr out the slashes I started with making a grid of even squares all over the backside of the cut out pattern piece, this is the back.

When I had the grid I marked out diagonal lines through the squared and cut them out. 

Then it was on to hem all the pieces. In total the bodice of the doublet had around 100 slashes.


In this final photo you can see the difference in look between the hemmed slashes, and the ones that had just been cut, before hemming them. 

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