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Saturday, 10 August 2024

HSM24: just peachy - a new gollar

The first HSM 24 challenge is: January: Just Peachy: “Peach Fuzz” is the Pantone colour for 2024! Make something in peach— or in the related colours of pink or orange

When I first saw the list of the HSM challenges I thought this would be the easiest challenge to finish, since my main projects this year (my husband's landsknecht and my remake of my pink trossfrau) involved pink. Then I felt that a lot of the projects fitted other challenges better. Well when I was finished with the landsknecht I still had some scraps of fabric left in the pink and red, and I decided to see if I could eek out a gollar from it.

Previously when I have made gollars I have based them on a circle pattern, now I decided ot make a more shaped and pieced garment. 

I first draped some pieces of scrap cotton on my dressform


Then I managed to get four pieces out of the last pink fabric. At this moment I didn't realize that I had forgotten to change the neck size so when I sewed these pieces together they were too big. I had to take them in at both the shoulder seams and back seam. The shoulder seams got a bit more shapingover the shoulders as well.

I added bias cut strips of red as decorations and the collar is also a strip of bias cut fabric. It is closed with a cloth button.
The backside was a bit more uneven.

I lined the gollar with a grey finer wool, to make sure that it was warm and nice, and to be able to make turn it inside out and wear it with my more simple clothes.

When I had finished the gollar I found that I still had scraps from the old furcoat left, the one I have used for a lot of garments by now, so I decided to edge the neck and opening in fur.

As I always do now when I add fur I first cut out the pieces that I wanted to have lined in another fabric, this time more of the pink wool. I then basted the fur to that fabric before I attached the fabric, with fur, to the gollar. 

With the fur on it's now quite as good looking on the inside to make it reversible, but it is really comfortable to have that feeling of fur around the neck on chilly nights.

I used it at Medieval Week in Visby, but most of the time it was warm so it was only at late nights that I used the gollar, and I didn't get any photos of it being worn.


What the item is: a wool gollar
How it fits the challenge: the base fabric is pink
Material: 0,5 pink wool, 0,5 grey wool, 10 cm of red wool, scraps of wool
Pattern: draped by me
Year: 1520s
Notions: linen thread
How historically accurate is it? around 75%
Hours to complete: 2 days
First worn: at medieval week in August
Total cost: $20

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