Saturday, 17 April 2021

More photos of the Selina blouse

 On April 8th, in between snow, hail and glaring sun I managed to get into costume and have my mother help me take some photos on her porch. It was really fun, and it really helped that I had borrowed a tripod so my mother didn't have to hold the phone, only see that I was actually in frame. I have already posted some photos, but here are some more.

HSM21 - Challenge Joy - the Selina blouse.

 When Leimomi of Scroop Patterns asked for testers for a new 1910s blouse I submitted an application, and was happy when I got chosen as a pattern tester. I have tested the 1910s Rilla corset from Scroop Patterns, and I have really like when I have sewn other patterns from her as well. This was a reason why I hurried to finish the jedi, so that I could work on this pattern. It had to be secret until the pattern was released though. Now it's released and I can post about.

It should be noted that this is the test version of the pattern, and there are some differences to the final pattern.

The first step of the process was to make a mock-up for the general fit. This is actually my second mockup. I was just on the measurements for size 46, but sized up to size 48 and that was too big. The Scroop Patterns are definitely true to size. This is quite a roomy fit, eventhough the raglan sleeves can feel a bit restrictive.

The fabric for the final blouse was a polka dot cotton, the only thin and fairly historical pattern I could find at the local fabric store. I liked the fabric a lot more when I switched sides and used the wrong side as the outside, where the dots were more faded.

As a pattern tester I made sure to take notes on everything. I should say that they Selina pattern comes in two views A and B. I made view A, and I had a bit of an issue visualizing the faux waistcoat, but it really helped when I saw photos of the other pattern testers. For the finished pattern Leimomi has added a modern photo as well as line drawing to show off View A, which I think is good. I also recommend visiting her blog to see more photos of the variations. 

I think if I did the pattern again I would either make view B, without the waistcoat effect, or choose a contrasting fabric for that piece to make it more visible. Overall the pattern went together really well though, and there were just very minor things that I had to give feedback on.

This was the finished blouse. It has a slightly raised waist, so when I wore it as a historybounding piece with a modern pair of jeans I felt that my belly was a bit too exposed. In the final pattern the front has been lengthened compared to the test version. In the pattern there is now also a full document about alterations, and that includes lenthening the bodice even more.

Also some testers had an issue with the peplum not being wide enough. Leimomi came up with fitting instructions for that as well, and those are included in the final pattern. I didn't have a problem with the peplum, but it definitely fit better when I wore it over my longline Rilla corset, that smoothes out the stomach and hips.

Overall I would definitely recommend this pattern for anyone wanting a nice and comfy blouse, either for historical costuming or modern day wear. I have bulky arms and hate fitting sleeves, so I love that it has raglan sleeves, and no pesky armscyes.

Here it is worn over my Edwardian underwear and with the Wearing History 1916 skirt.

Me being filled with joy while wearing the blouse

What the item is: a blouse
How it fits the challenge: I'm putting this one down for the joy challenge, because it was a real joy to work with it, and to be part of the pattern tester group. I was also really happy with the result, so I have already gotten a lot of joy out of this project. It also brought me joy to get some really nice photos done with it. 
Material: 2m of thin cotton
Pattern: The Selina blouse from Scroop Patterns
Year: 1916
Notions: regular sewing thread, 5 mother of pearl buttons
How historically accurate is it? This is pretty spot on, I tried to follow all the constructions to make it as accurate as possible, and the only thing is that I used regular polyester sewing thread. So 90%
Hours to complete: 2 days (including the mock-up)
First worn: For a photoshoot on April 8th
Total cost: $20 (cost of fabric and buttons)

Sunday, 11 April 2021

An outing to 1521

 Even if all big events are cancelled our 16th century guild is still trying to keep up with all the 500th anniversaries that are taking place. We limit us to eight people at the time, and we are outdoors.

This weekend we went for a picknick at Brunnbäcks färja, where the first big battle of Gustav Vasa's war of liberation stood in early April 1521.

The whole group in front of the memorial (note the Danish landsknecht in the middle)

Our Dalecarlian soldiers

The Danish/German contigent

The honourable local women

It was quite windy

I've had a lack of inspiration lately, but I'm also getting a bit bored that I'm always wearing this outfit, so I'm starting to feel that I want to change it up a bit. Maybe a new hood could be a good start.

Saturday, 10 April 2021

Edwardian underwear

 Last summer I made some Edwardian underwear, a petticoat and a corset cover. The only photo I had of them though was a bad mirror selfie, in my dirty mirror.

Today I finally got a chance to dress up in them and take some photos. 

The petticoat still held its shape and was nice and stiff from the starching I did last summer.

The photo was taken on my mother's porch, in typical April weather that contained snow/hail/thunder and glaring sunshine almost all at once. I also borrowed the shoes from her. they are a bit big on me, but that also meant that I could wear my white folk costume knitted socks in them, and they were warm and comfy on a day like this.

Wednesday, 24 March 2021

jedi softparts finished

 So I consider myself finished with all the soft parts, even if I'm going to ask for feedback over at the Rebel Legion forums.

The tabards started out as simple strips of fabric. They are connected with a seam at the shoulder, since I wanted them to be quite long. After advice from a jedi costumer I made the tabards double. The bottom parts have a tendency to flip up and show the underside, so I wanted them to look the same. At the waist they are connected with a strip of fabric to also keep them in position, and you can also see that there is a seam there.
The seam is from darts, one for each tabard both back and front. This corrects the angle of the lower part of the tabards, so that they don't cross but hang parallell to each other. This dart took quite some time to get right, and I had to test it over and over again while wearing the tabards. 
Since I didn't have a lot of fabric I had to use the fabric with the dye stains. I have them on the underside of the top where they aren't visible though. The tabards are kept in position by two snaps on each shoulder, that connect to the outer tunic.

The obi
The obi is also in two layers, and here I didn't have enough left of the outer fabric to make it double, so I used a sturdy cotton instead. The cotton lining was shaped to fit with darts.
I didn't want to have any visible seams on the obi, so the outer side is gathered at the top to fit to the lining. The obi is closed with velcro, to make it easy to adjust if I gain or loose weight and depending on how much I'm wearing under the obi.

This is me taking some quick selfies with my phone

The undertunic and skirt
With the outer tunic

Tuesday, 23 March 2021

HSM21 Challenge: Zero waste - the jedi petticoat

 After I had finished the faux jedi undertunic I realized that I had fabric left. I had cut the fabric straight, so I had one long piece. I have been thinking quite a lot about 17th century, but not enough to be willing to go all in for an historical recreation. Still brown was a very common colour. The linen/viscose blend that I used for the undertunic is really comfy, so I decided to make a standard petticoat out of it. It can work as an outer petticoat for simpler folk, or as an extra under other skirts.

The whole petticoat is made out of two square pieces, taking up the whole remnant of the fabric. The only waste was that little strip that I tore off to make sure that the fabric was on the grain. 

I sewed the pieces together at the sides and attached them to a piece grosgrain tape. I didn't have enough tape to be able to go all around me several rounds. The traditional way of closing a petticoat like this is to have one set of ties from the back piece that you tie in front of you, and one set from the front piece that you tie in the back. Well I only tied it on one side. 
I left a pocket opening on the other side, but the tape is not open there. Still it's possible to adjust the size waist with the tape on the one side.

The whole skirt is knife pleated. The side seams and the seam attaching the fabric to the tape is sewn on the machine, but it is hemmed by hand. 

What the item is: a generic 17th-18th century petticoat
How it fits the challenge: Made from a long piece of leftover fabric cut in two and pleated to fit, no fabric was left afterwards.
Material: 2 m of linen/viscose blend
Pattern: no particular pattern
Year: 17th-18th century
Notions: 1,5 grosgrain tape, modern sewing thread
How historically accurate is it? The fabrics and notions are modern but the model is correct. So 50%
Hours to complete: 2, most of it for the hemming
First worn: not yet
Total cost: $20

Thursday, 11 March 2021

Dyeing fabric for the jedi obi and tabards

 I haven't finished the outer tunic yet, but I decided to work on the fabric for my obi and tabards.

Here you can see the white fabric that I had planned to use. I definitely felt that the white colour was too much of a contrast to the brown fabrics. I first decided to just tone it down with a tea bath.

This was the result after a quite concentrated tea/coffe bath. One shouldn't expect more than a different in shade when using tea/coffee. Worse though was that there must have been some red dye residue in my big pot, becase even if you can't see it clearly here, there was a lot of pinkish splotches on the fabric. I also started to feel that even the toned down colour was still too much of a contrast to the browns. Looking at many of the jedi in the films, most of them keep to just one base colour, I really wanted to get a more brown fabric.

I went to the paint store that also carries limited supplies of dye. The problem was there was only a brand that should be used in the washing machine, and they only had one brown option. Well I went for the brown option and decided that I could probably go ahead and dye on the stove top, or rather in my big plastic vat in the bathroom that I've used before.

Now at least the fabric got brown, and not dirty white. It was obvious that the fabric that I thought was a cotton was a blend of cotton with some synthethic fibre that didn't take the dye at all. Still the cotton fibres took enough dye that the base fabric turned very lightbrown. An unexpected effect was that fibres in the pattern took the dye very differently, so the geometric pattern went from almost invisible to very clear. This means that I will not have to embroider the pattern to make it stand out.

I got some bad splotches, apparently the dye hadn't quite dissolved when I put the fabric into the dye bath. It's a lot less thant he pink splotches that were there before the brown dye, and I will be able to work around that part of the fabric and still get enough of fabric left for the obi and tabards.

Here is the fabric just draped over the dressform with the inner and outer tunic. The gemoetric pattern actually have the same colour as the inner tunic so now I feel that all the colours and fabrics blend in a lot better. I think I'm going to call this my chocolate-caramel jedi.