Starting the Last Jedi Leia

With around a month to go until the premiere of the film I really need to start working on it. I have started on a mockup for the coat. I'm going for the grey version, with a distinctly patterned fabric and a lower standing collar, compared to the more dramatic brown version.

Since I'm interested in historical costumes as well I tend to find inspiration from history, and the TLJ Leia coat has screamed mid-16th Century loose gown for me.

Margareta Eriksdotter Leijonhufvud (1516-1551)

Margareta Eriksdotter (Vasa), dead 1536 Copy after: Mäster Hillebrand

Then I found a photo of this extant dress 

garment of Margaretha Francizka Lobkowicz née Dietrichstein, 1st half of the 17th centuryRegional Museum, Mikulov

It has the open, hanging sleeves and the dramatic collar, so it just screams TLJ coat inspiration to me.

With inspiration from this time period I opened up my "Creating historical clothes" and used their pattern for a 16th century loose gown as the basis for my mock-up.

I changed the neckline in the front though to continue as a straight edge from the center front, this gives the collar a large lapel.

I trimmed the collar down and curved it to match the references.

There was a crease going from the shoulder seam and all the way to the front though, so I added a dart that continued up from the shoulder seam.

I was very happy when I found this reference photo that shows that there is a continues seam, from the sleeve, over the shoulder and up all the way to the collar.

I still want to tweak the collar a bit, but then it's on to the sleeves.

One thing that is guesswork at this time is the back. I don't know if there are any seams there at all. At this moment I'm going to treat the back as one large piece, if we get a reference for the back it's easier to add the seams in later, than if I make seams and it turns out that they aren't there.

HSM 15 Challenge 6: Out of your comfort zone

So my grand plans for this challenge, to handsew a self drafted pet en l'air, didn't come through, but I still managed to at least finish the challenge in a way.

Drafting an 18th century bodice is definitely out of my comfort zone. I prefer using finished patterns, and the only patterns that I have tried to drape myself have been rather loose garments. In order to create a basic 18th century bodice, that I would be able to use for almost every kind of upper body clothing of that century I would need to make a tight fitting pattern

I started with the instructions from "Creating historical clothes", for a basic 18th century bodice (p. 137), I did modify the pattern according to the instructions for a bodice 1770-1785. I chose this later simply because my "desert rose" stays are ca 1780, and they are my most wellfitting stays so in all probability they will be the stays that I'm going to use for most of my 18th century clothes.

This is the pattern directly from the constructions. I did notice immediately that I must have made something wrong with the strap, since it was set too low on the shoulder and also too narrow.

I cut out this pattern in some cheap fabric, but with very wide seam allowances. I sewed it up, and could say that the back fit nicely, but adjustments needed to be made to the front. The main issue was the strap and an ugly wrinkle that formed a bit above the bust. The wrinkle was taken care of by making a dart that took out some of the excess fabric.

For the strap I simply made it more straight, rather than angled. There were also a couple of minor adjustments, even with stays I'm not a perfect cone shape so I had to add some width at the waist. I noted all the changes necessary on the pattern, cut off the seam allowances, and then used the pattern to cut the next version out of more cheap fabric.

Then I realized why I had had to add more width at the waist. I simply had been too lazy when lacing up my stays. When I took the time to lace them up more properly it was actually a bit too big. I pinned the front together though and was quite happy with the fit.

So I marked a new seamline where I had pinned it in front, and then I cut off all the seam allowance and extra fabric.

And now I have a basic 18th century bodice pattern, and now I'm actually inspired again to use it to actually make a garment with it.


The Challenge: 6 Out of your comfort zone

What the item is (and why it was out of your comfort zone):
A basic 18th century bodice. It's out of my comfort zone since it was the first time I tried to drape a basic bodice for a tight fitting garment with no ease.
Fabric: 1 m of really cheap cotton fabric from IKEA.
Pattern: Drafted according to instructions in "Creating Historical Clothes".
Year: 1770-1785
Notions: none
How historically accurate is it? Back in the days it would probably have been more draped than drafted, but the result is an accurate pattern.
Hours to complete: Around 6
First worn: Not used yet.
Total cost: 0