Two soft summer hats

 I am the kind of person who just can't handle contact lenses, last summer I tried and tried, but apparently one of my failures in life is that I just can't get them into my eyes, and my eyesight is such that even when I could get them in I couldn't see good, just better than withouth. Meaning I could just handle a phone with the lenses in, but I could not drive with them. So I decided that it wasn't worth the frustration, and the money for buying lenses, and I have to go with glasses, and be half blind when in costumes where the glasses don't fit. Since I am also too cheap to buy corrective sunglasses I felt that I needed a summer hat this season to get some shade. Over the years I have loved big summer hats, but to be honest they get lost, the blow off or I simply don't use them because they are too big. I needed something smaller and softer, but I didn't just want a bucket hat. Well I decided to make a hat and went to search for a pattern online.

I found this pattern from Notches Sewing studio on Etsy.  Etsy today is unfortunately full of AI slop and it important to go through the profiles and see if you can find a real person behind the store. This pattern was a bit more expensive than the cheapest patterns, but I liked that it was more than a bucket hat and the fact that there was a youtube tutorial showed me that a real person was behind it. 

For fabrics I went into a local op shop and found some cottons, including two curtains with some stains on. I couldn't really decide on what I would do, and since they cost a total of $10 I bought all of them. I had to buy 1 m of medium weight interfacing, but that was just enough for both hats. In total material and patterns costed around $40, and the fabric I have left will be great to make toiles out of.

My first colour choice was this blue version. The blue was some kind of poly/cotton sateen, with quite a nice shine to it.

A downside was that it felt quite paperly and crumpled quite a lot. 

The pattern is marked as beginner/intermediate. Now there are no written instruction, just the youtube tutorial. It is an easy pattern, and for me it would have been nice to just have some written instructions so I didn't have to stop and play the video all the time. The second hat I made I didn't have to follow the video at all though.

The pattern is one size, and it fit me really well, I think I am normally a size 56 in hats, I have quite a medium sized head.

The pattern is easy, but it is a bit fiddly. In order for it to look good you need to be comfortable with sewing round pieces to each other, and to make topstitching. It is optional to top stitch the brim, but it really helps to make the brim steadier than when just relying on the fusible interfacing. I found it was quite wiggly to attach sew the pieces together when I was working with several pieces that were interfaced. Not hard, but wiggly and fiddly.

The other hat I made was in a more subdued colour palette, with a sandcoloured outer fabric, and a softer lining. Now the hats are reversible so it is possible to just turn them inside out if I want the flowers on the outside. The brim is steady enough with all the top stitching so it is possible to shape the brim and it keeps that way.

And this is the size of the hat on me, and not on the tiny styrofoam head.

Now I have to summer hats, and it took me one evening and one morning to sew them together.

A renaissance hairnet

 In my last post I had set up and started on a net with the sprang double grid stitch. I did the net in pink because I already have a black net, even if there are a lot of mistakes in it, and I also have a yellow and red as well, so I felt that I wanted something new. After all I am calling mine and my husband's landsknecht outfits for "50 shades of red", so to make something in pink felt like a fun project, even if I can't say that I have ever seen evidence for pink hairnets. For this I use the yarn "Grane" from Korps.se, which is a z-spun wool, 100 g = 400 m.

The net worked fine and I could make the whole net in one evening. I used 124 loops and it was 43 cm long. When I released it from the loom it was huge. This could never work as hairnet, unless I use my largest and heaviset wulsthaube, the one that was an experiment with wool and that I can't wear for more than a short while without getting neckpains and headaches. I did take my measurements and I could work out that I had a 0,75 conversion rate. Meaning that if I take the number of loops and multiply with 0,75, then I get the finished width. This is all very much depending on yarn and your own tension, but now I had a number.

So I set up a new warp with 80 threads and 40 cm long. It took me a bit less than an evening to make a new net. This size is perfect for my head with my own hair, it might be a tiny bit too small to wear a wulsthaube or large hairpiece under it though. So I guess a good size for me is probably around 90 threads.

I blocked the net over a bowl, but to be honest I don't really see a difference between this and just flatblocking it.

Here is the comparison between the first version and the new version. I think I will use the first version as a net bag for bulky but light things, maybe I should simply keep my yarns there.

A new sprang frame/loom and finally a double grid net

 I started out my adventures in sprang with an old picture frame that I found in an op shop. but a few weeks ago it finally broke so much that it couldn't be saved by duct tape any longer. The whole frame got wobbly in the diagonal direction which made it quite hard to work with. I have thought about a more "historical" frame for a while, one that I would be able to bring to a medieval market and it wouldn't look too out of place. I still wanted a frame that was easy to carry and move around.

In the end I decided to follow this tutorial I found on youtube.

I kept overthinking what kind of sticks I would use, until I took a stroll to the park and realised there are so many sticks and branches still on the ground after the severe winter storm we had back in January.

I picked up two loose branches and carried them home.

Here are my materials - a saw, two long sticks and some cotton string. The old frame that I used is also in pieces on the table so that I could use the pieces as general measuring devices.

I first laid out the size of it to see if it felt good, and it dig. It's definitely taller than my old frame so it will allow me to make longer sprang pieces.

And here is the finished loom.

I decided to try the loom and to finally get my head and hands around what Carol James calles the double grid stitch. It's supposed to be an easy stitch, basically on every second row you pick up double threads, but I had alwasy gotten a lot of loose threads and what I call "church windows", where the treads created little frames where they crossed each other. Now I decided to finally understand what I did wrong, work it out, and also to make a test piece to see if I could be better at calculating the final size.

I made a warp of 124 loops (248 threads) that were 43 cm long. I then followed the instructions of Sally Pointer on how to make the grid, her video can be found here. By working slowly, and having to untangle everything after around 10 rows and starting over, I realised two things. On the rows where I work single threads it's easier if I consider the four threads that have ended up together as threads to be braided together rather than just counting 1 up, 1 down. When I worked them four at a time I could clearly see if they twisted or if I got out of sync. I also used saving sticks for all four rows, the double grid is a set of 4 rows creating the pattern. The sticks made it a lot easier to "see" how the threads were moving, and I made sure to mark the nr 1 row, that is the red thread on the stick in the image. A lot of my problems with the double grid, that I realised this time,  come from threads twisting out of order, and that I couldn't remember which row in the four row pattern I was on. Marking that first row made it so much easier. The lower pieces of fabric are extra lifelines that I put on every fourth row to make sure I wouldn't have to go back too far if I realised a mistake that was more than 4 rows away, that happened the first time.

The loom worked really well, both with warping up and being easily movable, and it was a lot sturdier than my old frame. I am only thinking about replacing my metal knitting needles for the top and bottom, but we will see when I do that.