Friday 30 January 2015

Costume/cosplay meme day 12

 12. Your cosplay idol.
I have many people that I really admire, and you can check the list of blogs that I follow to see many of them. Many of them are historical costumers,so for this I will list two of my cosplay idols.

1. Kathy Kay Dee - Kathy's FB site,  and website
2. Henrik Pilerud - Pilerud's Cosplay

Both of these wonderful people, and I'm happy to know them personally, are so humble and nice and have done so much to help other cosplayers/costumers. Just check out all the tutorials that Henrik has on his site.


1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Thursday 29 January 2015

Costume/cosplay meme day 11

11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)

I will never say never, but I'm very unlikely  to ever make something that mostly consists of armor or other hard parts. I'm a seamstress and I really don't like when I have to go outside my fabric comfort zone. I will probably never cross-dress either. I simply don't think I would make a convincing boy, and I don't think I would have much fun in that either.


1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Wednesday 28 January 2015

Costume/cosplay meme day 10

10. The dream cosplay that will never happen

I love opera and I have seen so many lovely opera costumes, as well as designed my own ideas for different characters. I will never turn them into reality though, since nobody would understand them or recognize them. My top dream cosplay would probably be Brünnhilde, as she is in die Walküre.


1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.



Tuesday 27 January 2015

Costume/Cosplay meme day 8 and 9

8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)

My plans for the year were posted here, with some additional HSF plans here.


9. The dream cosplay that might just happen

One day I am going to make Padmé's picnic gown. I started gathering material more than 10 years ago, so I have the correct sequins, hairbuns and arm wraps. It's just a matter of committing to a large project and go through with it.
 

1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Sunday 25 January 2015

Costume/Cosplay meme day 7

7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)

I actually think I'm quite alike Amidala, except for ruling a planet by the age of 14 and so on. But no, I've always ended up in positions where you take a lot of responsibility, and my track record for relationships isn't that great either, even if I've avoided young Siths that ends up killing me.

1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Saturday 24 January 2015

Costume/Cosplay meme day 5 and 6

Oops, I missed yesterday's meme, so here comes two days in one. On the other hand the first one is pretty simple

5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!

This is basically my costume/cosplay page, so if you've found this site you have found my page. I have my Rebel Legion profile page where you can find my SW costumes as well.

6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)

This is tougher, I have two favorites, and from different reasons.
 I love my Amidala Travel gown and I am so proud of it.
But I also love my 1787 Revolutionary, since it included so many new skills in my sewing.





1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Thursday 22 January 2015

Costume/Cosplay meme day 4

 4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?

I really miss the old days of the Jedi Council Costuming and Props forum. Everyone was there and everyone helped each other. Today when most people, myself included, are mostly focused on their own blogs and FB sites it seems as if there is less of a community out there. I can talk Star Wars over at the Rebel Legion and Nordic Legions forum, and then I belong to a couple of historical costuming facebook groups, I really like the Swedish "Sy historiska kläder och gör något kul" and the "historical sew fortnightly).





1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Wednesday 21 January 2015

Costume/Cosplay meme day 3

3. Your most recent cosplay.

Well I did remake my classic ANH Leia in December, but that was more of an update to an existing costume. My newest cosplay was the Endor Leia, with the poncho.







1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Tuesday 20 January 2015

Cosplay/Costume meme day 2

2. How many costumes have you done?

This is so hard to answer, especially since I started to go into historical costuming, where it's more like building a wardrobe of things you can match. Anyway I have made 9 costumes that have been accepted in the Rebel Legion/501st Legion, add to that 4 that I never applied with and 1 can-can trooper, that makes 14 Star Wars Costumes. My historical costuming at the moment consists of 4 separate outfits, the revolutionary, the navy anglaise, the printed cotton anglaise and the striped jacket. I also made an outfit for work.  I have made, and cut up by now, 3 other historical costumes, so that makes 8 historical costumes. Then there were the two LOTR-costumes I made for me and my aunt and the Moulin Rouge costume.

That brings the total up to: 25, not including any ballgowns.



1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Monday 19 January 2015

30 day cosplay meme

I found this cosplay meme and since I'm a bit low on time to make blog posts about my current projects I figured this would be fun.

And for your information, the reason why I'm low on time is that I happen to work with World Ski Championships that are going to take place in Falun in February. Counting from Friday-Sunday I realized that I had spent almost 40 hours working with them, and of course I have my regular work as well. I really want to finish my 1780's stays and I have received all the fabrics for the gold handmaiden, so I am working away on them.

Anyway, meme time.

1. Your first cosplay
Now, as a kid I called it dressing up, so I'm not sure that counts. I do remember having great fun taking part in the annual Easter parade up in the mountains where we have a cabin. I must have been around 6 or 7 and was dressed up as Pippi Longstocking, my sister and her friend were Pippi's horse. The thing was though that the parade took place on skis, down the main, rather steep slope of a mountain, and my sister's friend just couldn't ski, so I remember being annoyed that the horse couldn't keep up when I wanted to ski faster. The first cosplay I actually made myself was a jedi costume out of old bedsheets that I made for a halloween party in 2000.



1. Your first cosplay.
2. How many costumes have you done?
3. Your most recent cosplay.
4. Your cosplay communities, where do you go to talk about cosplay?
5. Blatant self plug! Link us to your cosplay page, be it dA, ACP, Coscom, whatever!
6. Your favourite cosplay (that you have done)
7. The character you have cosplayed that is most similar to you (if none that you have cosplayed, then one that you will cosplay)
8. Your cosplay plans for the rest of the year (if you have no more for this year, then do next year!)
9. The dream cosplay that might just happen
10. The dream cosplay that will never happen
11. Something cosplay-related that you will never do (eg. crossplay, cosplay from a certain series)
12. Your cosplay idol.
13. Your cosplay specialty (ie. something that seems to apply to a large amount of your cosplays, it could be a specific series, or a common feature in their appearance, such as glasses)
14. Your cosplay-making habits (eg. singing while working on cosplay)
15. Your least favourite thing about cosplay
16. Do you belong to any cosplay groups? If so, what are they?
17. What events have you cosplayed to?
18. What is your best cosplay memory?
19. What is your worst cosplay memory?
20. Have you won any cosplay awards?
21. Show us your best cosplay derp photo!
22. Have you worn cosplay in a regular situation? (eg. at school, to work)
23. Your most expensive cosplay
24. Your most comfortable cosplay and most uncomfortable cosplay
25. The cosplay you put the most effort into
26. Any unfinished costumes? Will you ever finish them?
27. How many wigs do you own? Which is your favourite?
28. Where do you work on your cosplays and where do you store them when they’re done?
29. What is your favourite cosplay item? (eg. a pair of shoes, a wig)
30. Describe cosplay in three words. No more, no less.

Tuesday 13 January 2015

First dye batch complete!

My main fabrics for the gold handmaiden are still underway, but I've started on the sash around the waist. I started with the last piece of the silk charmeuse for my sister's wedding gown. It was around 1,5 meters and weighing 200 grams. Now it was time to really take the bull by its horn and start with the dye. I felt that this was a good start though, if I failed with the dye I wouldn't have ruined a large amount of fabric. The dye that I wanted to try this time was Jaquard iDye for natural fibres in Gold Ochre. I would probably not have dared if it hadn't been for this tutorial from The Dreamstress, she had also used Gold Ochre and so in that way I had seen the colour that her fabric got from the dye. I also asked the HSF FB group for any advice when it came to what kind of pots and the like to use.

According to the instructions that came with the paint you should either use a toploading washing machine, or have a metal pot that you could keep on the stove. I didn't have any of those, instead I decided to use the largest plastic storage box I could find up on my attic. Then I started to boil a lot of water. I used my kettle and three pots. The kettle was the fastest, but the biggest impact when it came to the temperature were my two large 10 litre pots. I filled the plastic bin about half full with my second to last large pot, added the dye, fabric and vinegar, and then I raised the temperature again with the last 10 l of water. I had also presoaked the fabric in hot water, so that the fabric itself wouldn't lower the temperature. The temperature of the dye bath came to around 80 degrees C.

I used a big stick, actually a broom stick, to stir the fabric. I kept stirring in the pot, so that the fabric was never still for 25 minutes. Then I lifted up the fabric into my bathroom zink and washed it with a small amount of washing powder. I rinsed it until I couldn't see any colour of the water.
When I hung it up to dry I was worried that the colour was too dark. I had noticed it already in the dye bath, so that was why I took it up after 25 minutes instead of the recommended 30 minutes. I hoped that it would lighten up when it dried though.

And it did! This is my fabric all dry. I'm so happy with the colour and this photo does not give the fabric justice, it's so rich and shimmering.

With that I'm really happy that I have found a dye that works, and I've managed to do a proper dye. Now there are still some issues that I need to solve before dyeing the main fabrics. That's going to be a lot larger amount of fabric, and it will not fit in that same plastic container. I will probably have to cut the fabrics into smaller pieces and do several dye baths, but I would like to reuse the water, but then I need to be able to come up with a solution on how to reheat the dye bath. I don't want to put y plastic bin on the stove. So still some technical issues, but at least the dye works.



Sunday 11 January 2015

red roses stays ca 1780

So in the last days of the holidays, I felt a bit idle after having done the mockup for the gold handmaiden, but I couldn't do more on that project. Then I started to think that the HSF challenge for January is foundations, and I must get a pair of proper fitting stays before embarking on my planned 18th century projects. First a bit of advice, ask yourself these questions before starting a project:

Do I have access to a pattern?
Do I have enough material?
Do I have enough time?

Let's just say that if you answer no to all these questions, it might not be the best of ideas to start it, at least not until you can answer yes to some of them. So I didn't have a pattern, well I did have the RH833 pattern and my notes of what I didn't like with it. Then of course there are a lot of pictures online of stays patterns so I figured I could frankenpattern something. So I took the wide front, regular side, side back and center back pieces from RH833, put them on some fabrics and took a look at a bunch of stays pattern. You can find most of them on my pinterest board. I freehanded the patternpieces and came up with this pattern.

 I did a mockup of bad fabrics and could at least adjust the size and some obvious faults. The main thing was that the front was too high and wide, the side front was too wide and the curve where the side front meets the front was too curved. I knew of course that a soft fabric without boning doesn't really say anything about the fit of the corset, so I cut out the pieces in cotton canvas and a linen that I found, well aware of that I would probably have to do a lot of seam ripping. I boned the front and back pieces fully, since I was quite sure of their fit, but I only boned the middle of the side pieces, so I would have wide margins to work with.

The first full fit was a disaster. I looked like a wine barrel. I started out with taking in the seam between the front and side front, going from a seam allowance of 1 cm up at the bust to 2 cm at the waist. I also straightened the curve of that seam yet again.On the picture above you can see that there is a diagonal crease on the side front, the new seamline actually follows that crease pretty well.

The side back piece also needed to get a lot more shaping, once again taking it in at the waist. The main issue was with this piece, and it wasn't so much the size, but the placement of the boning. I had placed the boning on this piece vertically down, since I thought it would end up mostly on the back. It turns out this is more of a true sidepiece, so in order to get a better shape I unpicked all the boning channels and made new ones, that were placed diagonally on the piece.

When I had done that I felt that I was going to be annoyed that the boning channels on the side front and side back, almost, but not quite, joined up. I wanted to combine these two pieces into one single piece. By now I had run out of fabric though, so the only choice was to take a part the stays, unpick the boning channels of the side back, sew the two side pieces together and make new boning channels, then of course sew the front and back on again.

This is the new side piece.

One thing I hadn't planned to do was to have only backlacing. My front piece was so narrow though that I just wouldn't be able to fit the lacing on it. Backlacing is so annoying though, since it's so much harder to lace up yourself. With a helper I would be able to tighten the stays even more, I can definitely feel that they are sitting a bit loose, or not loose if you compare it to normal clothes but I can definitely cinch them a bit more.


Still I am pretty happy with the fit. They are a bit wide and on the high side over bust, but I think I can solve some of that when I start fiddling with how to add the straps. I also haven't cut out the tabs yet. There is some wrinkling going on at the side pieces, but considering all the wonky seams I've done to get the fit they were expected.

Oh and the name of "red roses stays" comes from the colour of the read thread, and I have a nice cotton with roses on it that I want to use for the lining.




Thursday 8 January 2015

Fabrics ordered

Over the weekend I finished the mockup for the robe and the hood for the handmaiden. It's not perfect, but it's good enough and I needed to know how much fabrics I need to order.


Not much can be seen of the robe, and I still need to make some adjustments. The annoying things after having made the mock-ups was to measure all the pieces, and realize that most of them come down to around 60 cm in width, just enough to be unable to get two pieces side by side on the fabric, since silks are usually sold in 100-110 cm widths. That means that I had to order a lot more fabric than I had hoped.

Another thing is that I need to use the width of the silk as the length of the skirt, but since the silk is only 100 cm long, and I'm going to need around 130, I will need to hide a horizontal seam somewhere on the skirt.

All in all I've ordered 8,5 meters of silk velvet, 8 meters of organza for flatlining the velvet, 6 meters of satin for lining the robe and 11 meters of silk for the undergown. Out of these meters I also need to get enough scrap pieces so that I can do dye tests on them.

Tuesday 6 January 2015

The Historical Sew Monthly 2015

For next year the HSF has changed to HSM and been turned to 12 monthly challenges. For me that feels like a bit more pressure, I need to do something bigger for each challenge, on the other hand it would be great if I could actually manage to make all the 12 challenges, it feels feasible, compared to 24. My biggest obstacle is of course the fact that I'm going to work like crazy on the gold handmaiden gown for the first four months, and a lot of the winter will be spent in the ski jumping hills. This might force me to do work on several projects at the same time, which would be something new since I prefer to do one at a time and finish before I start the next ones.

Anyway here are the challenges for 2015, and my comments and current plans for them in italics.

January – Foundations: make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

V&A dated to 1770-1790

I really need a working pair of 18th century stays. I really love this set of stays from the V&A collection. Since I have to take a break with the Gold handmaiden, while I wait for the fabrics to arrive, I might have time to start working on a pair. The fabrics for the handmaiden emptied my bank account though, so I hope I have both fabric and boning in my stash.

February – Colour Challenge Blue: Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre. 
 
Gallerie des Modes 1778.

I have a remnant of the blue cotton velvet that I used for my giant revolutionary hat, I would love to make a matching muff for it.

March – Stashbusting: Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.  

Most of my projects are based on my stash so this sounds like a fun challenge, but I have no idea of what I want to do.

April – War & Peace: the extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace. '

This is the challenge that I'm most likely to skip. I need to finish the handmaiden, and then I'm off to the US for two weeks, leaving me just a couple of days to come up with something, and at the moment I really have no idea about what I could do with this challenge.

May – Practicality:  Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone, even princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.


 I always need more petticoats, so that would be the easy way to finish the challenge. A bit more difficult would be to add a shortgown, a cap and an apron to the outfit.

June – Out of Your Comfort Zone: Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.  
The last year I've thought more and more about that I need a robe à la francaise to complete my 18th century wardrobe, even if it's not my favorite style. I've felt a bit daunted by the pleating the back, but I would love to make a pet en l'air. 

July – Accessorize: The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.  

I want, and need, a good looking fichu.
August – Heirlooms & Heritage: Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations. 
This is me, and my niece. I'm wearing my folk costume. It's a traditional costume, eventhough my parish doesn't have an unbroken tradition of wearing folk costumes, but was reconstructed from remnants found in old attics and the like in 1921. It's still traditional, and something similar was worn by my ancestors, and a well made traditional costume can definitely be passed on to future generations. It's actually my sister that has handsewn my, and our other sister's, costumes. Since this photo was taken I have lost around 20 kg of weight, meaning that it's now way too big for me, I am also missing some of the accessories. So I could take in the whole gown, so that it actually fits, or I could cut and hem the winter shawl for it, or even more unlikely I could finally learn how to do fine embroidery and make the pocket for it.


September – Colour Challenge Brown: it’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown.  
I love pierrot jackets, and I would love to make one out of a piece of brown cotton that picked up last year.

 October – Sewing Secrets: Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).  

No idea at the moment.
 
November – Silver Screen: Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece. 


A perfect challenge to finich my queen Elsa gown.

December – Re-Do:  It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges. No idea at the moment

Sunday 4 January 2015

Costume plans for 2015

So it's time to sit down and think about what I want to do this year. In 2014 I deviated a lot from this list, but it's always interesting to go back and see how your plans and the actual outcome deviated. I will try to include the HSF2015 challenges that I have already planned in this list.

Star Wars
Gold Handmaiden - according to my 2014 plan this one should have been done by now. I have started on it though, and this will be my main focus until April.
Tusken female - she's been on my to-do list for so long, and when I ran around in my jawa 2014 I really missed having a masked character.
Possible TFA costume. The Force Awakens will premiere in December, so far I haven't seen any pictures of exciting costumes, but I need to be realistic and put space in my costume planning for it. It would be so fun wearing a TFA costume to the premiere.

18th century
A working pair of stays - I'm not happy with any of my pairs, so I really need a well fitting pair.
Pocket hoops
Pet en l'air - One day I want to make a full robe à la francaise, and I think a jacket is a good start to learn the techniques. Also jackets are more usable than full robes
Pierrot jacket 

19th century
I'm not really planning anything, but I have enough black fabric left from my 1895 skirt that it would be fun to make a matching bodice to it.

UFO
Queen Elsa - I want to finish this one this year.

Touch ups
My Amidala purple travel gown could really need some touch ups. I have material for a new veil and hairbags.

Skills
One thing I really need to come to terms with this year though is sleeves. I need to put some time and energy into finally getting a sleeve pattern that actually fits.

Thursday 1 January 2015

HSF recap

I've already done my total recap of the year, but I want to make a special HSF recap, just to see how many challenges I actually finished. As I mentioned in my recap post the HSF has definitely kept me at the sewing machine this year, and it has also influenced me to make things outside of my focuse area of historical costuming.

So these are the challenges that I finished this year:

1 - Make do and mend - trimming and mending my navy anglaise
2 - Innovation - a pair of sleeve ruffles with bobbin lace
3 - Pink - a reticule
4 - Under it all - a pair of stays
7 - Tops and toes - a ruffled cap (my first ever totally handsewn garment)
9 - Black and white - a white gaulle with black sash and hat with black and white trim
11 - Politics of fashion - Oufit for a lady of the French revolution
14 - Paisley and plaid - a 1940's skirt
19 - Inspiration - a working class 1830's dress
21 - Redo - An Edwardian petticoat (redid Under it all)
23 - Modern history - an 1895 skirt at a modern ball
24 - All that glitters - an 1930's belt

And with that I can say that I did a half marathon and finished 12 out of 24 challenges, definitely more than I thought I would when I started.

Time periods that I've covered
Late 18th century
1830's
1890's
1930's
1940's