Sunday, 25 February 2018

HSM2018 - Challenge 2 The finished 16th century shift

I have finally finished the shift. I had a lot of other things going on this month, including a very bad cold, so it took me some time to actually sit down and sew the sideseams and the hem.

The shift is all handsewn with waxed linen thread, except the smoking that is done with silk thread at the wrists and silk and wool around the neck. The thinner silk thread was used to secured the gathers before I smocked it with wool. The neckline contains so much fabric, and a lot of wool smocking stitches so it doesn't need any support or facings to stand up without falling down.

The sideseams and the seams connectng the sleeves are felled, the neckline and the wrists are finished with  a small rolled hem, and the bottom hem is a 1,5 cm double folded hem. It reaches down to my mid calf.

When I started the smock it was a plan to make a fairly simple shift, but I couldn't help myelf and this shift is much more elaborate than I had first planned, including that I added freshwater pearls to the neck. Once I decided to go totally upperclass with it I started too look more at this portrait of Margareta Vasa, from 1528.
Now this is the king's sister, I didn't want to make it quite as rich and detailed. That is why I used wool thread instead o the metallic embroidery around the neck, and not quite as much fabric in the sleeves. All in all I'm thinking that this would be a shift suited for the Swedish upper class, but not quite as rich as the royal family.



Inside of the neck. The smocking is covered with a linen strip and closed with three pairs of hook and eye.

The cuff with honeycomb smocking, makes it elastic enough tht I don't need any extra opening at the wrist.

The sleeve when worn, with the same kinds of of folds as Margareta Vasa, just less fabric.
The neck
The smocking around the neck
 The full HSM facts

The Challenge: 2 - UnderMake something that goes under the other layers.

Material: 4 m of white linen


Year: late 1520s

Notions: waxed linen thread, silk thread, natural wool thread, freshwater pearls, 3 pairs of hook and eye

How historically accurate is it? This is as close as I can make something accurate, I would put it in the 90%.

Hours to complete: 40-50

First worn: not yet

Total cost: $50

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