So many years ago I bought pink wool to make a pink 16th century gown. It's been in my stash for a long time by now. Last year at medieval week in Visby I decided that I really wanted a new gown for the next year, since I don't feel pretty in my old dresses, especially compred to all the pinked and slashed gowns.
This is my main inspiration for the gown. It's a woman that can be seen in large painting "the triumph of emperor Maximilian". It is a rather plain main gown, but the sleeves gives it a bit more interest. Of course I would have to improvise the front, but there are so many images of fronts that it's not a problem.
I cut out the main pieces with the plan of sewing it together at the Medieval Fair in Leksand, well I didn't sew a stitch.
In the middle of the summer I sewed the bodice together - and had a breakdown. It didn't fit at all, it was full of wrinkles and I just felt fat and ugly in it. I have a lot of issues with my weight, since I have gained a lot over the last few years, and I can't really say why.
Anyway after a couple of weeks I took up the failed bodice again and ripped it apart. I decided to start over. I cut out another layer of lining to make it sturdier. I also decided to construct the bodice the 18th century way where you first make the lining, and then mount the other fabric on the lining. I figured that some of the wrinkles were probably because the lining and the outer fabric weren't perfectly matched to each other. I also decided to baste it all together on the machine before handsewing it. So I basted the two lining layers together and sewed them up, now with very small seam allowances to make it bigger and reduce the stress on the fabric.
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| mounting the outer fabric to the lining |
Now I had a bodice that fit a lot better. I was also running out of time before medieval week. I had to reset the goal of finishing before medieval week. Instead I decided to aim for having it finished for Wednesday, when there is a big landsknecht march. I also decided that I needed to compartmentalize the project and break it down into smaller parts so that I get the big things done at home, and only have the smaller things left when I arrive in Visby.
This is the current state of the gown. The skirt, to the left, has been sewn together and the seams are felled. I have done gathering stitches on the maching so I can just gather and attach the skirt to the bodice. The olive fabric is a courser fabric that I have cut out a strip of to use as a hem guard. I made the gathering stitches on the machine since it's so much faster. I also had a discussion with myself on why I do things the way I do, and realized that since I'm not making this to dwelve deeper into the craft, I just want a pretty dress, then I'm fine with doing basting and gathering on the machine. Those are stitches that will be removed anyway.
The bodice is done except for the decorations that will go around the neckline and down the front. My original plan was to make eyelets to close it, and work on those on the ferry. I got a lot less stressed when I instead decided to go for lacing rings, which were used as well in the 16th century. I just need to go down to the medieval market and buy them.
The sleeves have been cut out, I was a bit stressed so unfortunately the top part is a tiny bit too short, but that's the way it is. I'm hoping to sew them together on the ferry, so I just have to attach lacing rings and sew them to the bodice when I arrive in Visby.
Will I have a new gown on Wednesday in Visby? We will see...
