Saturday, 17 April 2021

HSM21 - Challenge Joy - the Selina blouse.

 When Leimomi of Scroop Patterns asked for testers for a new 1910s blouse I submitted an application, and was happy when I got chosen as a pattern tester. I have tested the 1910s Rilla corset from Scroop Patterns, and I have really like when I have sewn other patterns from her as well. This was a reason why I hurried to finish the jedi, so that I could work on this pattern. It had to be secret until the pattern was released though. Now it's released and I can post about.

It should be noted that this is the test version of the pattern, and there are some differences to the final pattern.

The first step of the process was to make a mock-up for the general fit. This is actually my second mockup. I was just on the measurements for size 46, but sized up to size 48 and that was too big. The Scroop Patterns are definitely true to size. This is quite a roomy fit, eventhough the raglan sleeves can feel a bit restrictive.

The fabric for the final blouse was a polka dot cotton, the only thin and fairly historical pattern I could find at the local fabric store. I liked the fabric a lot more when I switched sides and used the wrong side as the outside, where the dots were more faded.

As a pattern tester I made sure to take notes on everything. I should say that they Selina pattern comes in two views A and B. I made view A, and I had a bit of an issue visualizing the faux waistcoat, but it really helped when I saw photos of the other pattern testers. For the finished pattern Leimomi has added a modern photo as well as line drawing to show off View A, which I think is good. I also recommend visiting her blog to see more photos of the variations. 

I think if I did the pattern again I would either make view B, without the waistcoat effect, or choose a contrasting fabric for that piece to make it more visible. Overall the pattern went together really well though, and there were just very minor things that I had to give feedback on.

This was the finished blouse. It has a slightly raised waist, so when I wore it as a historybounding piece with a modern pair of jeans I felt that my belly was a bit too exposed. In the final pattern the front has been lengthened compared to the test version. In the pattern there is now also a full document about alterations, and that includes lenthening the bodice even more.

Also some testers had an issue with the peplum not being wide enough. Leimomi came up with fitting instructions for that as well, and those are included in the final pattern. I didn't have a problem with the peplum, but it definitely fit better when I wore it over my longline Rilla corset, that smoothes out the stomach and hips.

Overall I would definitely recommend this pattern for anyone wanting a nice and comfy blouse, either for historical costuming or modern day wear. I have bulky arms and hate fitting sleeves, so I love that it has raglan sleeves, and no pesky armscyes.

Here it is worn over my Edwardian underwear and with the Wearing History 1916 skirt.

Me being filled with joy while wearing the blouse

What the item is: a blouse
How it fits the challenge: I'm putting this one down for the joy challenge, because it was a real joy to work with it, and to be part of the pattern tester group. I was also really happy with the result, so I have already gotten a lot of joy out of this project. It also brought me joy to get some really nice photos done with it. 
Material: 2m of thin cotton
Pattern: The Selina blouse from Scroop Patterns
Year: 1916
Notions: regular sewing thread, 5 mother of pearl buttons
How historically accurate is it? This is pretty spot on, I tried to follow all the constructions to make it as accurate as possible, and the only thing is that I used regular polyester sewing thread. So 90%
Hours to complete: 2 days (including the mock-up)
First worn: For a photoshoot on April 8th
Total cost: $20 (cost of fabric and buttons)

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