Monday, 15 July 2024

Landsknecht wams/doublet part 2 - sewing the bodice

 Once I had hemmed all the slashes it was time to sew the bodice together. For this I started with the linen lining. I don't know if this is the historically correct way of sewing a doublet, but I took my experience from making 18th century bodices, where you first make sure that the lining is fitting well and then you attach the outer fabric to the lining.

First the lining was sewn together and put on, and then I sewed the interlining layer to that. I simply overlapped the seams  to avoid bulk, and since this was done in total three times, two times for the interlining and once with the outer fabric, the seam is basically sewn three times so very strong. Here you can also see that I had started to make alterations of the pattern on the interlining layer, so that I could then cut the lining into the same shape as the altered pieces.


Here you can see some other alterations that were made to the interlining and then the lining was adjusted. Once those two layers were done it was time to add the outer fabric. 


For the outer fabric I attached the front pieces by simply sewing it to the foundation on the side seams and shoulder seams. The back piece had the raw edges folded over the previous seams and raw edges and attached it with a prick stitch.

The bodice was finished, but just pinned together. At this stage I should have added the lacing holes for closure, but since I hate making lacing holes and was eager to start with the sleeves I did them instead. It was a lot bulkier to finally add the lacing holes with the huge sleeves attached to the bodice and it would have been a lot easier to have it done at this stage.


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