HSM challenge 4: Out of your comfort zone - a 17th century cap

 Last year I finally did a loose 17th century hood for a small 17th century event in my hometown. Well that got me inspired to take part in the main event focused on the 17th century in Sweden.

Every year in April the Vadstena castle hosts a Weekend of Military history, based on the fact that the castle was finished in 1620. Now with good enough 17th century clothes and having met some of the people that take part in it I felt that I really wanted to go this year. And of course I wanted to update my wardrobe. 

The first step was to make new headwear. I have my beautiful loose hood, but it is a bit fancy and unpractical, and I wanted something that was more common and easier to work in. Now finding images of Swedish 17th century women isn't that easy. Most reenactors, or at least people that post tutorials and information, are focused on the English Civil War, and I am weary of just taking English sources as a base. Still for the headwear we have a few portraits of wives of priests in Sweden.

Portrait of Margareta Hansdotter (1594-1657)

There definietly seems to be a standard dress for these women, with a white crosscloth, a  tightfitting cap in white and then a black cap over it. I decided to use this style as the base.

As a crosscloth I simply made a triangle in linen and addet two pieces of tape. I am not sure if there is any evidence for a triangular forcloth in Sweden, for later periods there have been simple bands used for the same function. Still since I dye my hair all my linens tend to become discoloured, and having a larger, and simpler piece of fabric to protect the next layer is a good thing.

For the cap I started with the instructions from the guidelines of The Marquess of Winchester's regiment, an English Civil War group. I used the pattern for coif 4. I actually started with coif 2, but wasn't happy with a seam in the top, I preferred to have the seam at the back.

This was the result, and I felt that it was too big. I tried it on and simply put a pin where I wanted the cap to end, and then I simply cut the front shorter.

I attached two pieces of cape to the back corner of the front piece. For the back I simply pinned pleats in place until it was a good size and then I sewed the pleats in place.

This was the finished result. A bit looser than I had hoped for, but it gives me a good idea on how to work with a pattern for the outer wool cap.

Here I am wearing the white cap under my black cap.

The HSM facts:

What the item is: linen cap and forecloth
How it fits the challenge: The 17th century is a new era for me, and is definitely out of my comfort zone.
Material: 0,5 linen
Pattern: coif 4 according to the instrucion on The Winchester regiment's guide - https://www.marquisofwinchesters.co.uk/living-history-guide-coifs-and-hair/
Year: 1620s
Notions: line thread, a piece of cotton tape for the forcloth
How historically accurate is it? 90%
Hours to complete: an evening
First worn: At Vadstena military days 17-19th of April
Total cost: $10