Am I a regency convert?

While waiting for the material for my Melisandre coat I got bored, and since I have a problem with a stash that is bulging I decided to use up some of my fabric. Next week there is also a Jane Austen Garden party that I would like to go to, so I started to think about updating my gaulle in some way. The easiest way would be to make a half-robe or open robe, out of the cotton curtains that I brought home for free earlier in the year. With a half-robe I figured that it would be possible to raise the waist on the half-robe, and thus make the whole ensemble look a bit later than the mid-1790s.

I started with cutting out the fabric and linen lining, using the gaulle pattern but cutting it shorter to raise the waist.

I mainly used the half-robe from Janet Arnold's Pattern of Fashion (p, 44). To make it cross over I freehanded the bodice lines in front.

The linen lining is fitted closer to the body and closes with three sets of ties. All the photos on the progress are taken on my dress-form, which is not working when I'm doing historical fashion, so it fits better on me than on the dress-form.

For the sleeves I used the roundgown sleeve pattern from "The American Duchess guide to 18th century dressmaking" as an inspiration, but I cut it out a lot bigger and then draped it until it fit fairly well It's not my most well-fitting sleeve, but I really wanted the sleeves to be roomy and comfortable, and the regency allows for a bit of puff on the top of the sleeve.

To set the sleeves I first sewed on the bottom  of the sleeve. For this project I'm using the machine for all the invisible seams.

I then sewed the top of the sleeve to the lining, by machine, before I folded the outer fabric over te sleeve and sewed it on, covering the raw edges under the outer fabric. For this I did by hand, using a small backstitch.

Then it was only to hem the neckline of the lining and ouer fabric.

The fine tuning of the neckline shape is done with the help of two buttons and straps.

To make selfcovered buttons I cut out a round piece of fabric and made small gathering stitches all around it.

I pulled the fabric around a round shanked button, and then sewed it on to the gown.

I made a small loop of cotton ribbon and attached it to the inside of the lining.

The loop goes around the button and ruches the neckline to create the final shape.

When I had started working on the gown, and the bodice was done, I decided that since I had so much fabric, then I could just as well make a full roundgown, and not just a half-robe. I used to widths of the curtains, but I had to cut away around 10 cm on each side because they were really worn and sunbleached.

Most of the fabric was pleated into the back piece.

I pinned the rest of the fabric all around the bodice, and the excess fabric was gathered into two small pleats at the side seams. On the Arnold half-robe there is only a pleat on one of the side seams, but I rather have two pleats than cutting off fabric, also with my wide hips I figured that it wouldn't be bad to have some extra fabric there.

The last thing was to make a half belt, that goes from side seam to side seam. It fastens with a hook and bar.

While working on the gown I think I might have become a bit of regency convert. I've always said that I don't like regency and that it's a fashion that is not flattering to my figure. When I have tried it on during the process I have gotten quite surprised on that I feel really comfortable and nice in it. The simplicity of the construction, the use of cotton and comfortable sleeves have definitely made me understand why it's so popular with regency fashion.

Now it should be said that this dress is still mostly rooted in the 1790's, with the waist just a bit above the natural waist.

Now I hope that the weather will be nice and that I will get to that Jane Austen garden party.