I used four different kinds of fabric for it. For the front piece I used a blue linen/viscose mix. For the backpiece and for the lining in front I used unbleached linen/viscose. I found a scrap piece of finer, and whiter, linen to make facings for the front and for the back lining I used a coarser unbleached linen. It is a bit of mix, and the different linings is because I simply didn't have enough of one fabric to make the lining, but it's historically accurate to mix and and use uglier fabrics where they can't be seen.
When starting I decided to make the whole garment by hand. Since it was only a total of five seams, and they were quite short, I felt that it would be a good way of getting more used to handsewing. I did use regular sewing thread and for the closure in the front I decided to use hook and eye tape, since I had that at home anyway.
Just the facts:
Fabric: 1 m blue linen/viscose, 1 m unbleached linen viscose, 0,5 m bleached fine linen, 1 m unbleached linen
Pattern: Selfdrafted, after inspiration from the waistcoat on page 86 of Costume Close-up
Notions: regular sewing thread, hook and eye tape
How historically accurate is it? It's totally handsewn with almost accurate fabrics. The things that drags the accuracy down are the hook and eye tape and the small amounts of viscose in the fabrics. 85%
Hours to complete: Figuring out the pattern took a lot longer then I had expected. In all I worked a full week on this waistcoat.
First worn: For the photo above
Total cost:ca $30
What I learnt with this project
I managed to handsew the complete garment, which is a first for me. With the handsewing came the new techniques of attaching outer fabric and lining to each other piece by piece, rather than constructing two separate garments and then attaching them to each other. I can definitely see how you have more control with handsewing, but my stitches are a long way from being neat and uniform all over.