For the redingote I had bougt 2 meters of red wool from tyg.se. The wool was cheap, but it was also very heavy and stiff. I had started to cut out all the pieces in the lining fabrics, the same blue and unbleached linen that I used for the waistcoat. When placing them on the fabric I realized that I had cut it quite close with just two meters, and I was glad that I had chosen a shortsleeved style. In the end I had to narrow down the gusset quite a lot to be able to fit everything on to the fabric.
For the collar I wanted double collars, one long cape-like collar and one shorter. I started with just placing some scrap fabric on the finished coat where I wanted the collar to be, and then I simply cut until I was happy with the shape.
The last things to add were the trim and the buttons. The trim is a polyester sweeper fringe, but it was the only one I could find in diferent colours that were quite close to the style of the original. For the buttons I wondered for a long time on what to use. On the original you can see what looks like big blue oval button. I first tried to find metallic buttons, thinking that the blue colour could be pewter or gunmetal. I only found very expensive 18th century reproductions, and since I already cheated in materials and construction I didn't want to spend too much on the buttons. In the end I decided to make my own fabric covered buttons.
As a base I used flat plastic shank button. I cut out a roundel of fabric. I then sewed a gathering stitch with buttonhole thread around the edges and pulled it. That encased the button and I tied the thread. With the wool fabric the roundel was a bit too big, so the backside was just as thick as the shank. These are only decorative buttons though, and in fact that was good since I could attach them in the fabric, rather than just through the shank. When I sewed the buttons on I used the gathering thread.
|Plastic button, pattern for the fabric, back and front of the button.|
Now I'm going to change the dressform to my sister's measurements and start working on her wedding gown so I'm not sure when I will make the next update on this blog, since the wedding gown will be secret until the wedding day in August.