or my usual way of getting a pattern that I want. This is the method that I usually use when trying to create something. I call it frankenpatterning, since it's more about selecting pieces of pattern that I like and then trying to combine them into a new one. It takes quite a lot of scrap fabric to work this way, but in time when I get more patterns that look the way I want I won't need to start from scratch every time.
The redingote for the revolutionary gown has been one of the main challenges from the start. I have never made something like it before. At first I had hoped to be able to use the waistcoat pattern for the redingote as well, and only lengthen it. Since I wasn't happy with the fit of the waistcoat, and especially that it wasn't full enough over the hips, I felt that I needed to start over. After having gone through Patterns of Fashion, Costume Close-up and quite a few blogs with recreated redingotes I figures that I had two choices to get the flare, either a lot of pleats or making a waistseam and attach a skirt portion to the bodice. I decided to try with the pleated version, since that's looks more military to me, but keeping the waistseam and skirt option available if I couldn't get the pleats to work.
My first step was to choose a back and front piece that I actually knew fit.
After this it was time to see how I was going to add enough fabric for pleating. I first looked at the shape of the coat in Costume Close-up and tried to add scraps of fabric until it had a similar shape. When I then pinned it to the dressform I wasn't totally happy about how they fell. I then took a look on the jackets on page 26-27 of Patterns of Fashion. especially jacket C. I much preferred those softer pleats, so I changed the shape of the added scraps to look like those pattern pieces. Just like that jacket I also added a gusset in a slit in the front, to make sure that I got enough flare. For the back piece I added triangular fabric to the side, but just a square piece to the center back, like in Costume Close-up.
Here is the finished muslin of the redingote. It's too short on one side, since I cut off a bit too much fabric when trying to decide on the length, but I'm going to work with the longer pattern pieces. It is a bit small, or rather the opening in the front is just like in the fashion plate, but I would not be able to close it, so I am going to make it a bit bigger there, simply by adding some more seam allowance.
Here are the finished pattern pieces, front (with a slit), gusset and back.